Chinatown is a colourful, exotic and busy area, packed with market stalls and probably the greatest concentration of gold shops in the city.The Chinese community, relocated here from Rattanakosin (Old City) in the 1700's, still continue their own traditions and religious practices, and the area is quite unlike the rest of Bangkok. Relatively untouched by modern development - and despite being always crowded, hot and exhausting - it's an experience not to miss.
The main road, Yaowarat Road, (appropriately) follows the curve of a dragon's body, making it an ideal location for business. And business is doing very well, thank you...
The Chinese community in Bangkok, descendants of early traders, have been living in Thailand for generations, and generally consider themselves very much as Thais; most can no longer speak any Chinese. The area has a somewhat seedy historical reputation for large numbers of opium dens, brothels, pawnshops and a fondness for gambling that used to prevail.
Today, gold shops and pawnshops are still very popular in Chinatown, and can be found almost anywhere and everywhere. Drug dealing, prostitution and gambling (all now illegal in Thailand) are also still thought to be widespread in this area - although they are not likely to be very noticeable to the average visitor. So don't expect to see any go-go bars in Chinatown!
Today, gold shops and pawnshops are still very popular in Chinatown, and can be found almost anywhere and everywhere. Drug dealing, prostitution and gambling (all now illegal in Thailand) are also still thought to be widespread in this area - although they are not likely to be very noticeable to the average visitor. So don't expect to see any go-go bars in Chinatown!
Chinatown: What to see & do
Close to the Charoenkrung and Yaowarat Road junction is Chinatown's star attraction, Wat Traimit (the Temple of the Golden Buddha). At first glance, the 3-meter high Buddha image looks rather average and undeserving of the busloads of tourists that flock here every day. The big attraction is the remarkable fact that it's made of 5.5 tonnes of solid gold, with an equally fascinating story behind it.
In 1957 a large stucco Buddha image was being moved by crane during development of a port. To the sheer horror and shock of everyone, the crane operator accidentally dropped the image, sending it crashing towards the ground. Instead of smashing, the stucco covering merely cracked, and in the process revealed the solid gold image hidden underneath. It is thought to have been covered like this during the early Ayuthaya or Sukhothai periods to protect it from the invading Burmese.
In 1957 a large stucco Buddha image was being moved by crane during development of a port. To the sheer horror and shock of everyone, the crane operator accidentally dropped the image, sending it crashing towards the ground. Instead of smashing, the stucco covering merely cracked, and in the process revealed the solid gold image hidden underneath. It is thought to have been covered like this during the early Ayuthaya or Sukhothai periods to protect it from the invading Burmese.
Although there are many things to see in Chinatown, one of the biggest sights is the experience of the place as a whole. The best way to explore the area is to pick a starting point and wander around. With about 14% of the buildings in the district designated as historical landmarks, Chinatown is home to many fine examples of the architecture of Bangkok's early years. A good example is the Tang To Gung gold shop on Sampeng Lane, around Mangkon Road.
Sampeng Lane, Chinatown's original main street, is a narrow alley which runs from the Pahurat Textile Market all the way down to Songsawat Road. The lane is too small for cars, and is now a crowded market selling mostly inexpensive household and all kinds of other interesting items.
Sampeng Lane, Chinatown's original main street, is a narrow alley which runs from the Pahurat Textile Market all the way down to Songsawat Road. The lane is too small for cars, and is now a crowded market selling mostly inexpensive household and all kinds of other interesting items.
Near the Tang To Gung gold shop is a very old Chinese pharmacy that is also worth a look. The Chinese temple of Wat Mangkon Kamalawat - known in Chinese as Wat Leng Nui Yee - is the center of festivities during important festivals like Chinese New Year and the Vegetarian Festival. Another interesting temple is Wat Kanikaphon, with its main claim to fame being the fact that it was founded by a former madame who owned a brothel. And then, the charming and historical sights of the riverside and Old City areas are not too far away.
Chinatown: Shopping
Busy, bustling and hot, shopping in Chinatown is very different from your typical mall outing. Tiny alleys come crammed with a huge assortment of goods, crowded with porters manoeuvering wooden carts around customers. The main road, Yaowarat, has lots of fascinating Chinese pharmacists with containers full of strange looking herbal remedies and probably the highest concentration of goldshops in Thailand.
Take a walk down Sampeng Lane (also known as Soi Wanit), a long narrow walkway running parallel south of Yaowarat Road, and the narrow lanes directly off it. A riot of colour and noise, here you'll find garments, textiles, stationery, second-hand parts and equipment, electric goods, kitchen utensils, computer parts, antiques and even car parts, musical instruments or ancient Chinese medicine. Be sure to try some roast chestnuts!
Merchandise is generally very cheap and, often, sold wholesale. Sampeng Lane was previously infamous for the gang fighting and high numbers of murders that took place here. Nowadays, it's a very busy and predominately pedestrian street, with the main danger being the odd motorbike that tries to get past. The street is a hive of constant commercial activity, all day long.
The Thieves Market, or 'Nakhon Kasem', is slightly north of the western end of Sampeng Lane. Though legitimate today, it was so named because this was where stolen goods inevitably turned up. It's now a good area for buying Thai or Chinese antiques. Following the river heading north, Chinatown gives way to the wafting aromas of curries and the exotic spices of Pahurat.
Merchandise is generally very cheap and, often, sold wholesale. Sampeng Lane was previously infamous for the gang fighting and high numbers of murders that took place here. Nowadays, it's a very busy and predominately pedestrian street, with the main danger being the odd motorbike that tries to get past. The street is a hive of constant commercial activity, all day long.
The Thieves Market, or 'Nakhon Kasem', is slightly north of the western end of Sampeng Lane. Though legitimate today, it was so named because this was where stolen goods inevitably turned up. It's now a good area for buying Thai or Chinese antiques. Following the river heading north, Chinatown gives way to the wafting aromas of curries and the exotic spices of Pahurat.
A small but significant Indian community is located around the famous Pahurat Textile Market on the edge of Chinatown. Wholesale silk, cotton and all kinds of fabrics are traded with tough bargaining skills. It's also a good place to head for if you're desperate for some authentic Indian food. The markets are generally open throughout the day until around 18:00.
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