A King Turns 80, Let the Party Begin

WHO doesn't love a birthday party, especially when there are colorful fireworks, countrywide singalongs, and everyone is invited? Thais, and any visitors to Bangkok in November through early December, are all welcome to Thailand's biggest birthday celebration of the year (and a national holiday), in honor of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, or Rama IX, who celebrates his 80th on Dec. 5.

In a country where the monarchy enjoys a reverence seldom seen in modern times, the king's birthday is always a grand event, but this year's yearlong, nationwide celebration — with a fleet of royal barges, elephant parades and countless government initiatives — promises to take the proverbial (birthday) cake.

The Treasury Department is minting nearly 25 million commemorative coins. The Fine Arts Department created a special royal emblem encrusted with 80 diamonds. The Tourism Authority of Thailand is promoting a national merit-making campaign called “80 Days of Good Works.” And to top it off, the country's first expedition to the peak of Mount Everest is scheduled this month to honor the king's 80th by planting his royal flag at the summit.

The king took over the throne in 1946 after his older brother, Rama VIII, was killed by a mysterious gunshot wound to the head, and is the longest-reigning monarch (Queen Elizabeth II comes in a distant second). But he also is perhaps the most unequivocally beloved among his people: he is the embodiment of national pride, traffic halts when his entourage drives by and taxi drivers bow to his picture as they pass his likeness.

Born in Cambridge, Mass., King Bhumibol was not raised to be a king, which may be part of his charm. His interests in sailing, photography, painting and especially music are well known. He was the first Asian composer awarded honorary membership in the Academy of Music and Dramatic Arts in Vienna, and he has jammed on saxophone with the likes of Benny Goodman and Louis Armstrong, whom he considered a friend.

Although the king doesn't hold any legislative power, he has put occasional, heated pressure on the government in instances where it needed a benign and steady hand toward democratization, especially during various military coups.

I witnessed this megawatt star power on the king's 75th birthday, when I was living in Bangkok. Along with hundreds of residents, I stood outside the Grand Palace for hours, waiting for his highness to make his annual birthday entrance from the tall palace gates along Na Phra Lan Road. Portable floodlights were erected to shine on the building that Rama I began constructing in 1782.

Finally, the sun went down, the floodlights went up and the gates opened to hushed excitement. A shiny, pale yellow Rolls Royce swept into the street, and the Thais bowed and chanted exclamations of adoration. Several wept uncontrollably.

Soon the crowd moved en masse to Sanam Luang, a park where the same ceremony is held every year. A huge portrait of the king and a movie screen towered over a large stage. Rows and rows of uniformed military stood at attention before it as the crowd quickly grew. Candles were passed out and slowly lighted until the park was a sea of flickering lights.

Then the king appeared, to thunderous applause, and gave his annual speech, summing up the greatness of the country and reminding Thais to follow their better natures. In return, the entire country, with the help of satellite links in towns all over, raised lighted candles and sang “Father of the Land” to him, a song of salute and praise. The night was capped off by what was the longest and most pyrotechnically advanced fireworks display I've ever witnessed.

On his birthday this year you can expect the same appearance at the palace, national singalong and royal speech, or as an official press release delicately put it, “A grand public audience granted by His Majesty the King.”

SOME of the big events have already come and gone, like the 80-elephant parade at Chitlada Palace, the royal residence, and the Library Boat, which spent 80 days sharing its collection of 1,500 books on King Bhumibol's history, achievements and duties to port towns across the country.

A major highlight you can still catch is the Royal Barge Procession on Nov. 5, during which the king will travel down the Chao Phraya River to present robes to the monks of Wat Arun. This rare display of ostentatious antiquity features a formal procession of four gilded and canopied vessels powered by oarsmen and adorned with multiple naga serpent heads.

If you arrive in Bangkok before that date, look for one of the nine rehearsals that will also take place on the river or visit the National Museum of Royal Barges (Arun Amarin Road, off the Chao Phraya River; 66-2-424-0004) .

In the final weeks before the king's birthday, effigies will rise around Bangkok, and the streets will be outfitted with a display of lights to rival Midtown Manhattan at Christmas, especially along Avenue Ratchadamnoen Klang, which ends at Sanam Luang. On Dec. 2 at 5 p.m. at the huge and ornate Royal Plaza (U-Thong Nai Road, across from the Dusit Zoo), there will be the annual Trooping of the Colors in honor of the king. And on the morning of Dec. 5, locals will flock to temples to make special offerings.

To catch the infectious Thai spirit of the day (and show your enthusiasm), pack a yellow shirt. The National Commission on the Celebrations has asked everyone to wear yellow shirts (the royal color) every day from Dec. 1 to 5 to demonstrate their love and respect for His Majesty.

On the big day, plant yourself at Sanam Luang. There will be plenty of street food for the crowds. During the day, the stage will be used for a free concert of Thai pop songs and jazz pieces written by the king. Around 5 p.m., make your way over to the Grand Palace to greet the king before returning to the park for candles, singing and his birthday speech.

This year, the ceremony will be televised in 176 countries, and fireworks displays will be spread out over four days: Dec. 4 at 9 p.m. from the Royal Turf Club (183 Pitsanuloke Road; 66-2-280-0020); Dec. 5 at 8 p.m. over the Chao Phraya, between Utsahakam Ring Road and the Rama IX Bridge; Dec. 6 at 9 p.m. back at the Royal Turf Club; and Dec. 8 at 7.30 p.m. at Benchakiti Park (60 New Rachadapisek Road.) A schedule of events can be found at www.80thbirthdayanniversary.go.th.

There will also be fireworks in Chiang Mai, Sukothai, Udon Thani and Phuket. If you're in one of those towns on the holiday, you'll find celebratory gatherings, candles and the king's speech on satellite TV in their main town squares.

VISITOR INFORMATION

For a birthday-centric visit to Bangkok in November or early December, you should orient yourself around the Chao Phraya River, where many events are taking place.

WHERE TO STAY

The two most deservedly famous riverside hotels are the Mandarin Oriental (48 Oriental Avenue; 66-2-659-9000, or for reservations from the United States, 800-526-6566; www.mandarin-oriental.com/bangkok; doubles from $349) and the Peninsula (333 Charoennakorn Road; 66-2-61-2888 or 866-382-8388; bangkok.peninsula.com; from $240 after October). Both offer great views and easy access to the celebrations.

Farther upstream and closer to the palace is the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel and Towers (2 Charoen Krung Road Soi 30; 66-2-266-0123 or 800-325-3535; www.sheraton.com/royalorchid; from 5,500 bahts, or $172 at 32 bahts to the dollar), highly rated for its large rooms, service and ambience.

WHERE TO EAT

The dining options along the Chao Phraya include the terrace restaurant of the Royal River Hotel (219 Soi Charansanitwong 66/1; 66-2-422-9222; www.royalrivergroup.com), which offers a great view just above the King Rama VIII Bridge.

For a more local experience, try the Silver Spoon restaurant (2/1 Krung Kasem Road; 66-2-281-2900) on the other side of the river at Thewet Pier. Ask to sit on the rustic deck overlooking the river and enjoy traditional Thai dishes with an emphasis on seafood.